Interview with Alexandra Cherrett

One of Alexandra's costumes, worn by Chloe Marsh

In this week's interview, Alexandra Cherret of Park Lady Costumes will answer a few questions about making costumes for sidesaddle riders. 

A few words of introduction about you...

My name is Alexandra Cherrett and my company is Park Lady costumes. I make costumes for astride riders, side-saddle riders amongst other things. I first started sewing about four years ago after going on a visit to the Victoria and Albert Museum in London and being inspired. Believe it or not until that point I had never sewn before. Costuming since then has become a bit of an obsession. I also personally ride side saddle so understand what people are looking for in a good costume. 

Where do you find the inspiration for your costumes? Is there a lot of historical research behind them? 

I personally try to use as much historical inspiration as possible going through numerous books and works of art and referencing back to studies done on techniques used at whichever period I’m doing at that point. For example during the Victorian period there was an ever growing “middle class” not all of this class could afford to have a full wardrobe made for them so were encouraged to make it themselves. There are a number of magazines (actually more like hard bound books) which showed a selection of fashionable garments within them and for an extra cost you could purchase the patterns to go with them. The lady would then either be able to take this pattern to her seamstress or make it up herself. Knowledge of sewing was very common during this time and it was expected that every young lady would have the basic skills. This is where I find a number of the patterns I use. I find copies of the patterns from these magazines and tweak them to work for today’s wearers. 

Most of us don’t tend to wear corsets so it puts our bodies in to a different silhouette to what the clothes were intended for. Incidentally I do ride in a corset and find it incredibly comfortable. Each of my costumes are different to one another and there are very few I consent to do that are similar. If someone orders a bespoke costume we go through the design process together. Your costume should reflect you. If you are really wanting a particular costume from a painting then we can work together to get the sketch agreed. If someone comes to me without a solid idea of what they want that’s fine as well. I will add them to my pintrest board which has thousands of images and ask them to pick four images and tell me what it is about each that they like. From this we will agree the era and start designing from there. 

An example of the way patterns are shown in a Victorian magazine

What types of fabrics do you use? 

I personally am not a fan of synthetic fabric I try very hard to stay with wools, velvet and cottons etc there are two reasons for this. Firstly you will sweat horribly in synthetic fabrics whereas wool etc is breathable secondly I find that wools, etc. hold their shape much better. 

Do you try to create historically accurate costumes (without zips for instance) or do you sometimes adapt the style to allow for more comfort and safety? 

When I first started I did use zips. However now I do try not to unless specifically requested. With regards to safety, absolutely if it is requested and this would be discussed in the initial brief. 

Do you have a favourite style or period? 

My personal favourite period is the 1890s I love the silhouette! Most people see the big sleeves and go oh no i can’t possibly! What they don’t see is that they hide a multitude of sins. You have broad shoulders! That’s disguised by the sleeves! Want your waist to look smaller? Well the optical illusion of the sleeves does that for you to! 

An 1890s garment 

Do you have a favourite costume that you made? 

Each of my costumes are so unique and each stands alone so it’s hard to choose I would have to say my grey tweed with black details is one of my favourites along with a very special one made for a customer (Sarah Clune and her daughter Moya) I’m not allowed to show you that one as it’s a surprise until Windsor horse show. But I was invited to display that particular one to the royal warrant holders in London. 

In what types of events are your costumes worn? 

My costumes are worn for mostly equestrian showing however there are a number of costumes that have gone on to do outdoor theatre.

The grey tweed habit with black details, worn by Chloe Marsh